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Nomos Orion Gold Neomatik New Black: Nomos Doubles Down on Gold

Nomos Glashütte has expanded its gold watch collection by introducing the Orion Gold neomatik new black, a model featuring a black dial. While the case shape and automatic movement remain unchanged, the standout feature is the combination of an 18K gold case, a black dial, and gold hands.
The Orion is undoubtedly one of Nomos Glashütte’s most understated designs. Since 1992, the collection has been characterized by refined baton hour markers, a small seconds sub-dial, and a clean, expansive dial layout. This latest black-and-gold color scheme adds a touch of classic elegance.
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Gold Replaces Steel: Key Features of Ref. 350
The new Orion Gold neomatik new black (Ref. 350) has a direct counterpart in the stainless steel version (Ref. 396) released in 2024. A comparison between the two is natural, as both share the same dimensions—36.4 mm in diameter and 8.5 mm in thickness—and are powered by the DUW 3001 automatic movement, featuring black dials paired with gold hour markers. The defining highlight of Ref. 350 is its 18K gold case and gold hands.
The primary difference lies in the choice of materials. While Ref. 396 features a stainless steel case and rhodium-plated hands, Ref. 350 boasts a three-part case crafted from recycled 18K gold, complemented by a solid gold crown and gold hands. On the new Orion Gold neomatik new black, the minute track and hour markers create a subtle, light-colored contrast against the black dial.
Compared to the steel version, the gold model has one practical drawback regarding water resistance: it is rated to 30 meters (splash-proof), whereas Ref. 396 offers water resistance up to 50 meters. Orion Expands Its Gold Collection
The Orion was one of the inaugural models launched by Nomos Glashütte in 1992. Originally focused on stainless steel and mechanical movements while maintaining a relatively accessible price point, the Orion line shifted into a higher price segment with the introduction of solid gold models—designs that have undergone only subtle modifications since their inception.
Joining two light-colored gold models, the Nomos Orion Gold neomatik "new black" marks the debut of a black dial version. While Ref. 348 features a silver-plated white dial with heat-blued steel hands, and Ref. 349 "doré" pairs the same light dial with gold hands, the new black model utilizes the same black dial found on the stainless steel versions, creating the most striking contrast among the trio.
With the launch of this new Orion, Nomos continues to expand its gold watch portfolio. Beyond the Tangente, gold versions have been introduced for the Ludwig and Tetra, while the Metro is available in rose gold. The Orion Gold neomatik "new black" is part of this expansion, with its black dial clearly distinguishing it from the predominantly light-colored gold models.
Familiar Proportions, Now with a Black Dial
Measuring 36.4 mm in diameter, 8.5 mm in thickness, and 45 mm lug-to-lug, the Orion Gold neomatik "new black" retains the classic proportions of the Orion neomatik series. Its slim profile meets the criteria for a dress watch, while elongated, tapered lugs visually extend the round case. The lug width is 18 mm.
The domed dial is protected by a matching domed sapphire crystal featuring an anti-reflective coating on the inside. The sapphire crystal case back echoes the case's curvature, preserving the Orion series' signature lenticular profile. Despite housing an automatic winding mechanism, the watch rivals the slimness of many comparable manual-winding models. Slender gold hands and three-dimensional hour markers stand out strikingly against the black dial, while a delicate light-colored minute track outlines the dial's periphery. The small seconds sub-dial at six o'clock is not recessed but integrates directly into the main dial; despite the strong color contrast, this creates a sense of visual openness and clarity across the dial. Finally, a black-edged strap made from genuine Horween Shell Cordovan leather adds a touch of refined style.

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Unlike the two lighter-colored gold versions, the new black Orion model relies exclusively on a black and gold color scheme. With no other colors introduced—such as blued steel hands or brown leather straps—the overall aesthetic is defined almost entirely by the interplay between black and gold.
Ultra-slim DUW 3001 automatic movement
At the heart of this watch lies the DUW 3001 movement, introduced by Nomos in 2015 as the inaugural caliber of the *neomatik* series. This automatic movement measures 28.8 mm in diameter and just 3.2 mm in thickness, enabling the watch's remarkably slim profile.
The movement features a bidirectional winding rotor and, in addition to a stop-seconds function, incorporates a proprietary Glashütte-made balance system—comprising the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel, and pallet fork—to regulate the movement's pace. A sapphire crystal case back reveals the signature Glashütte three-quarter plate and heat-blued screws; the movement is finely adjusted in six positions to ensure precision. Its power reserve of approximately 43 hours is sufficient for daily wear, though it remains somewhat modest compared to many modern automatic movements. Brand
NOMOS Glashütte
Model
Orion Gold neomatik New Black
Reference
350
Case Material
18K gold
Dimensions
Diameter: 36.4 mm
Thickness: 8.5 mm
Water Resistance
30 meters
Dial
Solid black, gold hour markers, slender gold hands, small seconds
Strap/Bracelet
Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap
Movement
DUW 3001
Movement Type
Automatic
Power Reserve
Approx. 43 hours
Frequency
21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds
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